MooCowMan

I know some pressure switches come with an on-off switch built-in, but this one doesn't. Would it be best to wire in a switch to disconnect the pressur switch from the contactor's coil or wire in a swtich to disconnect line power from one of the contactor coils?

Example:

Pressure switch -> toggle switch -> contactor coil

or

Line -> toggle switch -> contactor coil

My truck is a 1999 Dodge Ram 3500 with Kelsey Hayes AWAL (all wheel anti-lock) brakes. My ABS control module needs to be replaced. I've found several used units that are the same Kelsey Hayes model, but slightly different part numbers. None of the sellers know anything about interchangeability. Some are from Durangos, some from newer year Rams. Should these be interchangeable? Would I need to have the control module coded or programmed for my specific vehicle?

History: I have an ABS code for rear isloation solenoid short or open circuit. The AWAL (all wheel anti-lock) equipped Dodges have the rear isolation solenoid(s) integrated into the ABS control module, unlike RWAL (rear wheel...) which have the solenoid separate. I removed the control module and discovered one of the rear solenoids was badly rusted. The solenoids are soldered onto the circuit board. The board is glued to the aluminum case. So, solenoids aren't serviceable.

Hoping for a Dodge tech's help. Thanks!

Pioneer GM8400M amplifier. Pioneer 12" subwoofer. It's the same oscillating groaning noise whether the engine is off or on. It's not a high pitched whine and not a low pitched hum. It oscillates up and down about 1 octave. The pitch of the noise changes when I press down on the subwoofer's cone. Pitch and volume of the noise does not change with engine speed. It does not change when I turn on accessories, like lights. The pitch and volume of the noise does not change when I adjust the gain, nor change the volume on the head unit. I have another Pioneer amp running the door speakers, which makes no such noise. Both amps share the same 2 gauge power wire and both are grounded at the same place, where I scraped the area to bare metal and used a copper washer on a bolt. I've swapped subs, same noise. Swapped in another amp (lower wattage) and no noise. What's the most common cause?

The crazing looks like fine cracks randomly dispersed on the hood. This hood was repainted at least 3 years ago. The crazing was already there when I bought the truck. I'm not excited about sanding the paint off the whole hood. Can I just use filler to fill in the cracks, prime the whole hood and paint? I'm not looking to keep this truck forever. If it lasts a couple of years, I'll be happy.

03 Lexus SC430 w/ Mark Levinson sound sytem: tweeters dead. There's signal to the tweeters, but no sound. OEM tweeters are 16ohm per specs. but I can't find any 16 ohm tweeters for cars. What would happen if I used 4 ohm tweeters instead? The speakers are a component setup that go through a crossover built into the amplifier. On each side, there is a 6.5" woofer (8 ohm), 3" midrange (8ohm) and 3/4" tweeter (16ohm).

...

I can't believe how cheesy the OEM speakers are and the 8ohm / 16ohm setup. I've already replaced the front woofers due to deterioration, had a hard time finding 6.5" 8ohm woofers that woud fit, but ended up with some discontinued Soundstream subs. Now I need tweeters and next, the rear sub also dteriorated foam.

I'm using PPG urethane clear coat. Most instructions and videos online say to mist a light first coat for adhesion ("tack coat"). The first coat will not appear glossy. Its purpose is to penetrate into the base coat for better adhesion and flexibility. Subsequent coats can be wet and achieve high gloss. But the guy from the paint supply store says the first coat should be a wet coat that looks the way you want the finished product to look. His explanation is, "People are used to spraying lacquer, in which each coat melts into the previous coat and levels out. Urethane is prone to orange peel if you use a light 1st coat because each coat doesn't melt into previous coats."

I've painted 3 times in the last week using wet 1st coats as the guy at the paint store suggested and they look great, but I'm afraid of the long term effects.

I'm looking at a diagram that calls for transistor 2SD613. In the diagram, the voltage to the base of the transistor is 12V. When I check the spec sheet of this transistor, the Emitter-Base Voltage spec says 6.0V. I'm assuming this is either a nominal or maximum rating. Am I wrong?

I keep having to go into the router and renew my IP address every couple of days because my IP addresses get flagged by Spamcop. My email service provider uses Spamcop's blacklist. So, outgoing emails get blocked when my IP is blacklisted. We have 6 computers at my business. I've checked all of them for anything suspicious, ran malware scans on each one, and nothing. We do have a piece of software that sends automatically sends me notifications by email, but that only happens about 3 times a day. We have another business with an almost identical setup and that shop has no Spamcop issues (same email provider). All I can think of is one of these computers is sending out enough SMTP traffic for Spamcop to think we're spamming. How can I find out which computer? Is there some type of software that can do this?

My car's headrest DVD controller box has a 10-pin connector that has audio out and video out. Unfortunately, they don't sell the wire harness for that connector and they won't tell you which pins serve what function. I need to determine which pins are for audio out (right and left) and video out. Audio and video ground should be easy to find, but I was wondering if I can use a voltmeter to help find the + audio and video pins. Approx how much voltage shoudl I expect to see from those pins with a steady stream of video and sound?

I use a 24" pigment inkjet printer for printing banners for my own auto repair shops. I usually print on matte polypropylene. We have several banners 24" x 60" that are alternated daily. They get stained from being handled by greasy hands. I've been considering a cheap desktop cold laminator from eBay for about $220 shipped. Does anyone have any experience with how well these work?

It's a 12V battery, same as the ones used in childrens' toy cars, ATVs, etc. I'm installing a battery in a machine at my shop that's used to evacuate fluids. We usually have to clamp the machine to a car battery to power the pump in the machine. It doesn't need that big of a battery to work. The machine uses 12V, 4A. I don't know much about charging circuits, but I've read that you can just connect an AC to DC adapter and it will only charge at whatever rate that the adapter will output and when the battery is full, it will simply stop pulling current from the adapter. 1) If the battery was drained, could it attempt to draw more current than the adapter can handle and cause the adapter to burn out? 2) Is it true that it will simply stop pulling current once the battery is charged?

I'm averaging about 50,000 hits per month. It's just a site with my personal photo album for family and friends to see. I haven't updated it in about 3 years. Why am I getting so many hits?

I own auto repair shops. I've tried 3 industrial brands of epoxy (not home store Rustoleum stuff) and each one has lasted less than 1 1/2 years before showing obvious signs of wear. I'm contemplating just skipping the decorative flakes and clear top coat. It seems the top coat is never very durable. They quickly wear down and expose the chips, which end up getting knocked off / worn down until I have bare epoxy. I figure if i skip the flakes and top coat, I'll just have solid epoxy to wear down until it hits bare concrete. So, the wear won't be as evident until we hit concrete. Is the top coat necessary? Is it supposed to be more durable than the epoxy?

A picture of such a card is shown here:

http://www.allbrands.com/imagenav.php?pid=9332&img...

It is used for embroidery machines.

Does it require anything other than the grille? The headlights, signals and coroner lights appear to be the same. Are any of the supports different?

Epson 7600 printer & Illustrator CS. I've printed banners up to 7ft without problems, but when I try to print a 10ft banner, the image gets cut off before the end and just prints white space after. The printer is capable of printing much longer banners. I've read in a couple of places that the maximum length Photoshop and Illustrator will print is somethign like 108in (9ft). I think this is the problem because this is about where the image is being cut off. I've tried some work-arounds suggested (reducing resolution, scaling down the work & scaling up through print driver) but still same problem. Is there a program I can export this to that will handle a length of over 9ft?

Just got my dealer's license. I don't want to buy cars with major body damage. I only want mechanical problems, big or small. Auction lists usually note body damge, but they say you have to go there to find the cars with mechanical problems. I've paid registration fees for a couple of auctions. But when I go, I rarely see any cars worth considering. Are there any auctions that either specialize in cars with mechanical problems or have a decent percentge of cars with mechanical problems?

I'm trying to verify the accuracy of my electricity meter. The only figure I'm missing is how many watt-hours are represented by one rotation of the disc. It seems 7.2 watt hours per rotation is a common number. The only number printed near the "KH" on my meter is "1/3". The electric company says it's a very old Duncan meter. Did they make meters that went 1/3 watt-hours per rotation?

It looks like a slot for something like a compact flash card. Does anyone know what type of card this is? I can't imagine I'd have to buy "special" cards. I know I'll need software to digitize/convert images in PES format. I'd imagine the software also knows how to format the card so it can be read by the embroidery machine.

And will using a sealer keep it looking "wet"? The wood has become dried out and faded. Is deck dealer suitable? I had planned to pressure wash, sand and seal. It looks great after it's wet with water. But when the water dries, the wood is faded. Will a sealer keep it looking "wet" or do I need to stain it first, then seal.