Billion Dollar Boy

I am trading in my car tomorrow. We spent all night looking for the title and can not find it. I can go to Albany tomorrow morning and pay to have a duplicate. But we are supposed to be trading in the car tomorrow afternoon. Their website says allow 5 to 7 days to mail the title . .but if I go to Albany DMV, can they print it right there?

Up until now, I have been a single member/owner of an LLC. I am now going to file a change request to be identified by the IRS as a multi-member LLC, for tax purposes.

This may sound really simplistic, but how does the company go about paying out profits to the LLC members. Is it done quarterly? Yearly?

Also, let's say we have $150,000 in profits (after expenses), and I have a member who owns 15% of the company. I assume their cut would be $22,500 (15% of the profits). If that's true, then how do we actually grow the company. Instead, what if I want the company to hold $75,000, because next year we are going to expand. How do I do that? I am confused in how I can have the company keep the funds it needs for future growth, if it is forced to pay out.

Thanks

We have a True Commercial Freezer (TS-49F). It is relatively new, and still under warranty. They have recommended we contact local repair shop, which we did. The repair shop says if they come out and it's just a setting, we will get billed not TRUE. So, we just want to ask around to see if we are doing something wrong first.

Freezer seemed to work fine for a week. Or at least we didn't notice a problem. Second week we noted that the freezer temperature is fluctuating greatly. Goes down to 27 degrees, then up to 45 degrees. Never stays below freezing long enough for our products to freeze. Everything is thawed.

We temporarily turned off the defrost cycle, thinking this was causing the problem. This had not seemed to resolve the issue.

The products we put in the freezer are not already frozen. They are products we made in the store, and put into the freezer at room temperature. I bring this up because the repair person told us over the phone that some freezer are 'not meant to freeze' they are only made to hold temperature of things already frozen. This puzzles the bidazzles out of me . . nowhere on the freezer description could I have known this would be the case. This does not seem like the answer???

Any suggestions? We are in a bind and need to get this working properly ASAP

Let's say I own an LLC (Happy People, LLC). And we are going to buy an existing LLC (Sad People, LLC) and engulf it. We want to own the products, legal rights, name, customer base, etc . . . but we want to absorb it into our existing LLC. Obviously I do not want to run two companies, two payrolls, two tax ID's etc.

I have read online that we should buy the company and not the entity, but I find that statement a bit confusing. Can someone explain?

In short, we want to buy Sad People, LLC and absorb it into Happy People, LLC. However, we want to get a DBA so that Happy People, LLC can do business as Sad People, LLC. That way we can run it as one company, or an asset of our existing LLC, using one payroll, one tax ID, etc. BUT, this would allow for us to sell off the DBA easily enough if we later decide it's not working.

And yes, when we get closer to closing a deal, we will have an attorney. I am just trying to get my hands around what is happening so I am not so blind to it all as it goes down.

Thanks

We are a very small bakery. We specialize in one thing, and all we need is a convection oven to make our product. Currently our kitchen has a gas oven and gas range, with full exhaust . . etc. We don't love the way the gas oven cooks, and we are outgrowing the small oven fast.

We are on a very tight budget, and a cheap solution is to buy a wall oven (floor models at SEARS are discounted quite a bit). A double wall oven with convection in top and bottom would get us through for a while, for sure. We can pick one of them up at sears for around $2,500 (floor model), and that is a huge difference between a used commercial oven at $8,0000.

I know this wall is supposed to go into the wall, resting on a wooden support board and bolted in with screws on the sides. But can't it just as easily just sit on the floor like a regular oven? IS there a problem with that?

We simply want the double oven. We don't care to install it into the wall/cabinets.

Maybe if we built a wooden stand with an inch or two ridge to hold it in place? and used brackets to bolt it to the wall, so it won't tip over??

Any suggestions? We want to do this as cheap as possible (we NEED to do this as cheap as possible)

Can we just set it on the floor ?

What is the name of the deli inside The Journal Square in Jersey City, NJ?

do they have a website or contact info?

Thanks I am not local and can not go over there to find out myself.

I have a small start up bakery . . . and we are now looking to move to an S Corp structure, but I find all of the legal verbiage to be confusing at times.

I know that I have to file a certificate of incorporating in my state ($135)

I need to get an EIN

What else do I need to do?

I keep reading that as the creator of the S corp, I am required to pay myself a "reasonable salary". This part is where I get lost. We are a start up and lose money (because we are buying equipment and supplies and just getting off the ground . . we are trying to grow). I don't take any salary at this point.

If I have to pay myself a salary right now, I will have to close my doors because the business can not year afford it.

What do I do? Is it better for me to simply remain a Sole Proprietorship for now?

We are thinking about driving from Albany NY to Bronx Zoo, but we have never driven in NYC . . .

Can someone tell me: Is it hard to drive in Bronx? Is it busy/crazy like Manhattan? Should we take a train instead?

Also . . we drove home from Long Island a few months ago and the highway was gridlock . . is there a better way home or a good time where traffic is not so bad?

Thanks!!

I am looking at a 2011 used vehicle with 21,000 miles on it. I see that if I purchase a new vehicle, they have better rates than used.

My car is used, but current year .. . .will I get used car rates or new car rates?

Please, only answer if you have experience in this . . . If you are assuming I will get a used rate, simply because the car IS USED . . . then don't bother posting . . I would like some real knowledge.

Thank you!

I am very close to purchasing a used 2010 SRX, after 5 months of research. Someone (here on yahoo) recommended that I find out the Black Book Value, so that I have an idea of what the dealer paid for the car, and to help me figure out or estimate how low they may be willing to go, or at least a starting point for negotiating.

I found it was very difficult to get information on line - but I finally found the Black Book Website, and I see that you need to pay for a year subscription. I don't mind paying for what I use, but I really only need the value of one car . . I don't want to spend all that money on a subscription that I don't need. If they had a way to pay per vehicle, I would.

Does anyone have access, or is able to provide the Black Book Value:

2010 Cadillac SRX, AWD, Luxury Edition

18k mi

Navigation System

Thanks

Vehicle: 2010 SRX Premium, with DVD Entertainment system and 20" wheels. 16k mi

Dealer asking price: $39,995

I have done a ton of reading about how much you can negotiate a used car, and I am none the wiser. According to Edmunds, the TMV Dealer retail is $43,000 and the Trade value is $38,500.

Trade vs asking gives very little room for profit . . .. does that mean that I don't have much room for them to drop the price? I have heard some people save thousands negotiating, but how if there is no room? They won't sell the car at a loss.

Technically, with the price of gas, you would think the SRX would be a hard to move vehicle, as it is an SUV - but I am finding there is still a high demand for these.

What is a good "walk away price" for this car?

Looking at a 2010 Cadillac SRX Premium with 18,000 miles. Dealer is asking $39,995.

I know that when a dealer gets a car in on a trade, they usually have much more room for 'negotiating', then when they bring cars in from auctions.

This particular car states that it is previously: GM Company Car. Would that mean that they have a lot of moving room, like the trade in? Or does this mean that it's probably an auction car, just that it was previously GM Company car. Not quite sure how it works when GM turns in their company cars. Do they auction them off, or wholesale them directly to dealers?

Anyway, they are asking $39,995. Is it ridiculous if I offer $36,000 ?/

Please don't answer by saying . . . go ahead and offer, it can't hurt. That's not what I am asking. I am asking if (1) being a GM company car, will they have more wiggle room, and (2) is $36,000 a bit unrealistic?

Checking Autotrader.com and Cars.com, this model usually prices around $37,000 - $41,000 asking price.

***** W ********************* W ************************************* W ******

| ...Kitchen................. |................. |||||||||| ................................................... |

|..................................| ....... Bath |||||||||| ................. Bedroom ..................|

|..................................| ..................||||||||||.....................................................|

|_____ ...................__|___|............||||||||||__________________________.|

| ...............HALL WAY...................................................................................|

| \ ______ ....______ ................. _____________________________|

|........................... | ........................................................................... |

| .......................... ............................................................................. |

|..........office.........|.................LIVING ROOM & DINING ROOM................................|

| .......................... | ............................................................................|

|__ W ________|_______ 3 windows here ....................... _____|

Total Sq Feet: 750

Sorry for the bad drawing . . I am not an artist, but wanted to give you a bit of an idea of the layout. It may not be proportioned correctly, but you get the idea . .

I am trying to figure out the best way to cool down the apartment in the summer with just one Air conditioner AND . . . if I should consider a portable AC instead of a window AC. I have read very poor reviews on the portable AC . . so I am quite leery about that . . .

My bathroom . . . it does not make sense to put the AC in there.

My bedroom . . . windows are non-normal small sized, so is the office. So these rooms are out for a window AC

We spend most of the time in the living room area, but sleeping is important too, when it gets too hot.

Last year we had the AC in the dining room window . . . but I HATED it cause it was an eye sore, and forced us to keep the vertical blinds open . . which sucked at night. It also did not do a good job of cooling the bedroom so we often slept on the living room floor.

I am thinking this year . . . maybe putting a larger unit in the kitchen - and hoping it will bleed out into the hallway and into the bedroom and living room area???

What are your opinions? Should I buy a more powerful unit and try it in the kitchen, or does it really need to stay in the dining room area to be most beneficial?

Any good reviews on a portable unit? I hear they are BIG, LOUD, UGLY and don't cool well at all

Thanks!!!

I am looking at a used 2011 Cadillac SRX AWD, with Navigation. It lists new for about $44,000 and sells for about $42,000 new.

This one is used, with 8kmi, and the dealer is asking $39,900.

I would like to offer $36,500 or $37,000 . . . is that asking too much? What should I expect to pay? I can buy a used 2010 for $33 - $35,000. I don't see many used 2011's out there, so I don't really have much to compare it to, and KBB, NADA both don't show data for "used" 2011's yet.

Thanks for your opinions.

I am having a problem with a very large SQL Table.

We have a form, where users can select any field within the table (64 fields available) and filter on that particular field. All fields are numeric.

For example: filter could be on field "C", where a user wants to bring back all results where Field C is greater than 5.

We have some fields that are all Nulls. At a later date, they may become populated, but for now they must remain null. We can not use ZERO as a place holder, because Zero represents a specific instance, in this case.

Here is my problem:

On most fields the filter works fine. But on any field that contains ALL NULLS and no actual data, the filter will time out.

How do I get around this?

Hopefully, I have explained it correctly.

We have a large (24 million records, and about 70 columns) Table that will continue to grow. We only update it once a month, overnight, so indexing effect on insert/update should not be a huge issue.

In a nutshell:

There is no unique identifier in this table. ALL fields have potential duplicate info. We did create a unique id field as an auto-num. Out of the 70 fields, about 53 of them are used for searching/filtering from users.

We are now facing some major performance issues when searching . . and from the research I have done, I am thinking we need to (1) do some index work (2) consider partitions.

Please give me some advice on indexes:

A.) Seeing that our "auto number" field is the only unique field but has no relevance to data and is not searched, should we even consider using it as our cluster index?

B) Each of the 53 search fields are all Numeric. Some have null values. We can't set these null values to "0" because Zero has a specific meaning. Should we create non-clustered indexes for all 53 fields?

I really don't know the best way to optimize searching this table?

Please advise

I am looking for some real advice (not haters and not whiners).

I LOVE LOVE LOVE the Hummer H2, and was all set to buy one (gas is not a major issue here as I don't travel more than 12 miles a day). NY has hard winters and I need a safe, reliable, vehicle that gets through the bad weather - I don't have the option of calling in "snow days".

While out shopping, I spotted the Infiniti FX35 - and found that I also LOVE this car. Yes, I know - it's apples and oranges . . . but both are very nice vehicles with equal but different costs and benefits.

H2 is slightly higher in gas (10 - 14 mpg compared to 15 - 20 mpg) - BUT FX35 is higher insurance, and probably higher maintenance - which negates the cost in gas.

H2 should be able to get me through any weather conditions without issues - I have not been able to test the FX35.

H2 would be 2005/2006 model with 68k miles on it . . but the H2 is estimated to run for about 300k miles.

The FX35 is a 2009, with 64k miles. Newer vehicle .. . but I don't know the estimated lifespan for this car. Certainly, I don't expect 300k???

Any owners of these vehicles have any input? advice?

Please don't go on and on about the gas in the H2 . . . really the FX is not that great either, so it's not a major issue in the decision. (Also, the FX requires premium gasoline - which brings the cost of gas per year closer and closer to H2).

I know they don't make Hummer anymore . . . so should I stay away from it?

I have always wanted the H2, but now I find the FX35 to be a really nice car too. . .

Help?

Looking at maybe purchasing a 2009 Infiniti FX35 AWD. I live in NY and we get some snowy months. How does the FX35 hold up in snow?

At first, I assumed because it was AWD it would be a good "all weather" vehicle - but then I read a review from an owner who complained he was sliding all over the road, even on slow driving (in the snow). BUT - it could of been because he was using 20" rims and not the standard 18??

Anyone have any experience driving one of these in the snow?

Hi

In January or February of 2011 (6 to 8 weeks), I will be purchasing a 2004, 2005, or 2006 H2 Hummer.

My credit took a nose dive about 5 years ago, as I went through a financial hardship for a few years. I have, however been rebuilding my credit and it gets better all the time.

My plan is to try to get a 72 year loan but not actually carry through with it.

For example: I want to purchase the car with 72 month loan to keep my payments where I need them to be. But, after two years, when I will qualify for a much better rate, I will refinance for 36 months. Thus, in reality it will be a 5 year payment even though it starts out at 7.

The question is, as we turn into a new year, 2011, will I be able to get 72 months on a 2005 vehicle? what about 2004 or 2006?

Certainly if I had better credit, I would not take the 72 loan . . but I do have a goal of really cutting it back to 60 months or less

1) purchase car with $5,000 down - 72 months

2) after 2 years, refinance with another $2,000 down for 36 months

3) After year 3 (first year after refinance) trade the car in - as I should not be upside down in the loan.

Hi

I have been using AutoTrader.com to try to find the vehicle I am looking to purchase. I found that this used car dealership in NJ has what I am looking for at a very decent price.

Thing is, I am a few hours away and I am looking to find out if they are a reputable dealership or not. Does anyone have any information or experiences they can share?

I have googled their name, and their address and I have not found any information. Not finding any bad information would be a good sign, but I am not able to find good or bad information . . which makes me wonder how long they have been in business.

I have also checked the BBB site and found nothing.

Perhaps they are or have been operating under a different name?

I did use Google Maps and I can see that they actually DO exists . . but that does not give me much to go on. Just looking to do a little homework before I take a 3 hour drive . . .

If you know of them, or have had a good or bad experience . . . can you please advise?

Thanks